The North —
Great Food & Drink
Photos show an assortment of restaurants and pubs of Northern Ireland: (top, from left) Roscoff and Deane's Restaurants, both in Belfast, and the Crown Bar, Belfast; (middle, from left)
The Linenhall Bar,
and Peadar O'Donnell's Pub, both in Derry City, and HcHugh's Bar, Belfast; (bottom, from left) The Morning Star Bar, and The Northern Whig Bar, both in Belfast; and the Londonderry Arms, Carnlough, Co. Antrim.
Like the rest of Ireland, Ulster has great food and drink. The area is
particularly known for its variety of breads — soda bread, wheaten bread,
potato bread, and apple soda and currant bread, as well as all sorts of
scones to spread with cream and Mourne honey.
Other local Northern Ireland specialties range from Armagh apples to Lough Neagh eels. "Champ" is a combination of potatoes mashed with milk and chopped spring onions. "Dulse" is edible seaweed. Northern Ireland's signature drink, of course, is Old Bushmills Whiskey.
There are many great restaurants, cafes, and pubs to try
while traveling around Northern Ireland. Here is a sampling to whet your
appetite:
Restaurants
Cafes
Pubs
Restaurants
Aldens in the City, 8-14 Callender St., Belfast (tel. 028-9024-5385) – contemporary daytime deli/café with lots of bright colors, mirrors, and fresh food, to eat in or take out. The menu features homemade wheaten bread, curries, pastas, caesar salads, and tasty sandwiches (Limerick ham with mature Irish red cheddar, chicken tikka, smoked salmon and cream cheese, and a “sandwich meal deal of the week.” It’s in the heart of the city, off Donegall Sq. N. Web site: www.aldensinthecity.com
Beatrice Kennedy, 44 University Rd., Belfast (tel. 028-9020-2290) – located near the university in a Victorian townhouse that once belonged to a woman named Beatrice Kennedy, this award-winning restaurant is like dining in a private residence – open fireplace, period furnishings, old books and other homey touches. The menu offers creative cuisine using local ingredients from pan-roasted Finnebrouge venison and free-range chicken to pan-fried monkfish with braised oxtail or dry-aged Fermanagh ribeye steak. Web site: www.beatricekennedy.co.uk
Bushmills Inn, 25 Main St., Bushmills, Co. Antrim (tel. 028-2073-2339).
Dating back to the 17th-century, this inn is a popular spot for a snack or
full meal, within walking distance of the famous distillery. Relax amid an
old world decor of open fireplaces, gas lamps, and antiques. The bar food
ranges from creative salads to hearty soups and sandwiches, while the main
dining room uses recipes featuring Bushmills whiskies. Web site: www.bushmillsinn.com
Cayenne, 7 Lesley House, Shaftsbury Square, Belfast (tel.
028-9033-1532). For a big splurge, head to this trendy restaurant. The black-and-white decor is austere, but the menu is a rich blend of classic French recipes enhanced by healthy and California influence. Specialties include ballotine of salmon and lobster with sun-dried tomato sauce; pigeon and wild mushrooms; and monkfish with soy glaze and coriander cream. Open for lunch on weekdays and dinner every night except Sunday. Web site: www.rankingroup.co.uk
Deanes, 38 Howard Street, Belfast (tel. 028-9056-0000), located opposite
City Hall, is two restaurants in one — a pricey 40-seat dining room
upstairs and a more affordable brasserie on ground level. Both enjoy the
talents of the same chef, Michael Deane, a Michelin-star award winner. The décor is ornate in Baroque style but the food is simply delicious — a
fusion of Irish and international cooking, with dishes such as Thai spiced
salmon, ravioli of lobster, roast cod with ratatouille, or lamb with roast
fennel and roquefort dressing. Open for lunch and dinner daily in the
brasserie and Tuesday-Saturday for dinner in the main dining room. Web site: www.michaeldeane.co.uk
The Exchange, Queens Quay, Derry City, Co. Londonderry (tel. 028-7127-3990) – a contemporary harborfront restaurant on the ground floor of the Exchange House building beside the River Foyle and close to the Guild Hall. The menu features steaks (T-bone, minute, fillet and sirloin) as well as international dishes such as chicken carbonara or fajitas, char-grilled tuna, medallions of monkfish, tagliatelle pasta, or foccacia pizza. Web site: www.exchangerestaurant.com
Franco’s, Queen Elizabeth Rd., Enniskillen, Co. Fermanagh (tel. 028-6632-4424) – a longtime local favorite, this colorful and fun restaurant is set in a series of restored buildings along the riverfront and decorated with colorful wall murals hand-painted by a local artist. The menu features a “high cuisine” of aged local beef, free-range chicken and seafood from Donegal and Sligo waters – salmon, crab, oysters, and mussels, plus 14 variations of pizza, with Italian names and ingredients. Web site: www.francosrestaurant.co.uk
Horseshoe & Saddlers, 66 Belmore St., Eniskillen, Co. Fermanagh (tel. 028-6632-6223) – a combination of restaurant, bistro, pub and wine bar all under the same roof in the heart of town. In keeping with the name, the interior has an equestrian theme and décor. The menu offers hearty T-bone steaks, racks of ribs, local seafood, poultry, pork, lamb and vegetarian choices. Web site: www.horseshoeandsaddlers.com
James Street South, 21 James St. S., Belfast (tel. 028-9043-4310) – housed in a former linen mill one block south of City Hall, this mid-city restaurant is contemporary with a black and white décor enhanced by bold modern art. The menu presents an equally bold blend of European recipes and Irish ingredients with dishes such as salmon tartare, honeyed pork belly, roast poussin, saddle of rabbit, red mullet and pea risotto, or loin of Antrim lamb with white asparagus. Web site: www.jamesstreetsouth.co.uk
La Sosta Ristorante, 45a Carlisle Rd., Derry City, Co. Londonderry (tel. 028-7137-4817) – since 1995, this family-owned Italian restaurant has been a dependable local favorite, located just outside the walls beside Ferryquay Gate. The décor is reminiscent of a homey villa with open fireplace, beamed ceilings, tile floors, and framed posters of Italy. The menu offers a selection of authentic recipes from Abruzzo including antipasto and pastas as well as main courses of duck, seafood, beef, chicken and lamb prepared with traditional sauces and herbs. Web site: www.lasostarestaurant.co.uk
Londonderry Arms, 20 Harbour Rd., Carnlough, Co. Antrim (tel.
028-2888-5255). Dating back to 1848 and once in the hands of Winston
Churchill via inheritance, this historic ivy-clad inn overlooks the harbor,
at the foot of one of the Glens of Antrim. Bar food ranges from soups and
sandwiches to a ploughman's platter of local cheeses, while full meals
focus on traditional dishes such as roast chicken and bacon, or rib of beef
with horseradish sauce. Web site: www.glensofantrim.com
Mellon Country Inn, 134 Beltany Rd., Omagh, Co. Tyrone (tel.
028-8166-1224), is a popular stop near the Ulster-American Folk Park. House specialty is
Tyrone black steak, a locally bred hormone-free beef. Other choices range from burgers,
soups, and salads to lobster newburg and sole bonne femme. Open daily for lunch and
dinner. Web site: www.melloncountryhotel.com
Nick's Warehouse, 35 Hill St., Belfast (tel. 028-9043-9690) is a former
warehouse transformed into a popular wine bar-cum-restaurant with brick
walls, open kitchen, and wrought iron culinary sculptures. It offers trendy and tasty
cuisine, such as curly kale soup, hot-and-sour beef, lamb chops with honey and ginger, or
mixed nut bake. It is situated near St. Anne's Cathedral. Closed Sunday. Web site: www.nickswarehouse.co.uk
Roscoff, 7-11 Linenhall St., Belfast (tel. 028-9031-1150). Situated in the heart of Belfast behind City Hall, this bright and modern restaurant adds panache to a row of staid offices. Above all, it presents the talents of Paul Rankin, TV presenter, cookbook author and a leading light on the Northern culinary scene, who blends tried-and-true Irish recipes with the flavors of southern Europe, India, Asia, Australia and California. Yum! Open for lunch and dinner except Sunday-Monday. Web site: www.rankingroup.co.uk
Tedfords, 5 Donegall Quay, Belfast (tel. 028-9043-4000) – housed in a former chandlery building dating back to1843 and overlooking the River Lagan, this restaurant smartly specializes in seafood with choices such as seafood or creamy smoked cod chowders, curry roast monkfish, pan roasted turbot and scallops, and grilled sea bass with chorizo and shellfish butter, or wild sea trout with crab-crushed potatoes. The menu also offers some chicken, vegetarian and Angus beef dishes. Web site: www.tedfordsrestaurant.com
Cafes
Café Equinox, 32 Howard Street, Belfast (tel. 028-9023-0089), is a small
eatery at the back of a household gift shop. The menu offers creative
sandwiches, pastas, and salads, as well as pastries, milkshakes, fresh
baked scones and six different kinds of farmhouse apple juice from local
sources. Closed Sunday. Web site: www.equinoxshop.com/html/cafe.shtml
Le Bistro, Erneside Shopping Centre, Enniskillen (tel. 028-6632-6954), is a busy self-service café overlooking Lough Erne. Soups, salads, sandwiches of all kinds are served fresh daily. Closed Sunday.
The Thatch, 20 Main St., Belleek, Co. Fermanagh, (tel. 028-6865-8181) – as its name indicates, this small café is set in an authentic thatched cottage, claiming to be the only original thatched building in any town or village in Co. Fermanagh and providing a distinctive “old world” atmosphere. The menu offers home-baked scones and cakes, and freshly made soups and sandwiches with various fillings including wild smoked salmon.
Many of Northern Ireland's attractions also offer cafes or tea rooms as
part of their facilities, so you don't have to interrupt your sightseeing
to enjoy a snack or quick meal. Here are some of the best:
Belleek Pottery, Main St., Belleek, Co. Fermanagh (tel. 028-6665-8501)
Carrickfergus Castle, Antrim St., Carrickfergus, Co. Antrim (tel.
028-8335-1273)
Giant's Causeway Visitor Centre, Giant's Causeway, Co. Antrim (tel.
028-2073-1159)
Old Bushmills Distillery, Main St., Bushmills, Co. Antrim (tel.
028-2073-1521)
St. Patrick Centre, 53a Lr.Market St., Downpatrick (tel.028-4461-9000), and the St. Patrick's Trian, 40 English St., Armagh (tel. 028-3752-1801)
Ulster Museum Café, Stranmillis Rd., Belfast (tel. 028-9038-3000)
Waterfront Hall, Lanyon Place, Belfast (tel. 028-9033-4455)
Pubs
Blakes of the Hollow, 6 Church St., Enniskillen, Co. Fermanagh (tel.
028-6632-2143). A landmark in the center of Enniskillen, this pub dates
back to the 1880's. It has a lovely Victorian decor with a long
marble-topped bar, pinewood snugs, and lots of memorabilia.
Crown Liquor Saloon, 44 Great Victoria St., Belfast (tel. 028-9024-9476),
is the veritable benchmark of Belfast's Victorian pubs, built in 1885.
Although it functions as a full-time pub, it is maintained by the National
Trust and revered with a museum-like awe by its regular patrons and
visitors from near and far. Step inside and sit in one of the 10 authentic
carved oak snugs on the right, each with its own bell and doors topped by
lions or griffons; or take a place along the long bar with inlaid colored
glass and marble trim. Savor your favorite beverage amid a decor of
richly colored tiles, stained and smoked glass, gas lights, beveled
mirrors, wooden arches, and red-and-yellow tin ceiling. Web site: www.crownbar.com
The Deers Head, 1-3 Lr. Garfield St., Belfast (tel. 028-9023-9163) – one of the few remaining Victorian bars in the city, located at the corner of North St. near St. Anne’s Cathedral. Established in 1885, it has over a half-dozen cozy snugs and other 19th century memorabilia.
The Front Page, 106-110 Donegall St., Belfast (tel. 028-9032-4269) – immersed in the heart of the city’s newspaper district, this old pub is a popular watering hole for journalists. It was built in 1910 and still retains many of its original furnishings.
Kellys Cellars, 30 Bank St., Belfast (tel. 028-9032-4835) – one of Belfast’s oldest pubs, established in 1720. It is wedged in a small street off Royal Avenue beside the Castlecourt Shopping Centre. Over the years, it has kept its aura as an unpretentious “drinking man’s pub.” It attracts a diverse clientele, including Irish musicians who add music to the scene every night except Monday.
The Kitchen Bar, 1 Victoria Square, Belfast (tel. 028-9024-5268) – dating back to 1859, this pub started at another location with theatrical connections around the corner. It was relocated with all of its original furnishings to its current home (a converted warehouse), to make way for the new Victoria Square shopping center. It is a lively place, with all types of music including traditional Irish on Saturday night. Web site: www.thekitchenbar.com
McHughs, 29-31 Queen's Square, near Albert Clock, Belfast (tel.
028-9024-7830), claims to be Belfast's oldest pub, dating back to 1711, as
well as the city's oldest remaining building. It was recently refurbished
and reopened in 1998, with lots of memorabilia and mementos of the past.
Enjoy traditional music entertainment on Sat.-Sun afternoons and modern music on Thurs-Sat. nights. Web site: www.mchughsbar.com
The Morning Star Bar, 17-19 Pottinger’s Entry, Belfast (tel. 028-9032-3976). Located in an old “Entry” between Ann and High Streets, this building dates back to 1810 and was originally a coaching house on the Belfast-Dublin mail line. The Victorian-style sign over the door and the golden winged lion of St. Mark join to give a preview of the Victorian delights inside, from its original mahogany counter to the old terrazzo floors. It has been called a “living museum.” Web site: www.themorningstarbar.com
The Northern Whig, 2 Bridge St., Belfast, tel. 028-9050-9888. Formerly home to the Northern Whig printing press, this “uber cool”-style bar now has a contemporary eastern European atmosphere, with original granite Communist statues and alfresco seating on Bridge Street. Web site: www.thenorthernwhig.com
Peadar O'Donnell/The Gweedore Bar, 59-63 Waterloo St., Derry (tel. 028-7126-7295), is widely known for live traditional music almost every night and some afternoons. Web site: www.peadars-gweedorebar.com
River Inn Bar & Cellars, 36 Shipquay St., Derry (tel. 028-7137-1965), is the oldest pub in Derry City, dating back to 1684. It was originally operated as an inn and the bar was named "Gluepot" in honor of a London pub. The walls are lined with a collection of wine bottles and local Derry memorabilia including a map showing the streets of Derry in 1690.
The Linenhall Bar, 3-5 Market St., Derry (tel. 028-7137-1665).
Situated inside the Derry walls, this pub has lots of atmosphere and is a
favored gathering spot for the locals. Sporting events are shown on a big
screen TV and lunch is served.
White's Tavern, 2-4 Winecellar Entry, with access from Lombard St., High St., and Rosemary St. (tel. 028-9024-3080), is one of Belfast's oldest pubs on one of the city's oldest streets. It was established in 1630 as a wine and spirit merchant shop, and then rebuilt as a pub in 1790. Step in, order your favorite beverage, and enjoy the ambiance amid the brick arches, ornate snugs, old barrels, and framed newspaper clippings dating back at least 200 years. It features a range of beers and real ales, supplied by local microbreweries. Web site: www.whitestavern.co.uk
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